Manual gearbox

Noisy in neutral with engine running
1. Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed)
2. Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released)

Noisy in one particular gear
1. Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth

Difficulty engaging gears
1. Clutch fault
2. Worn or damaged gear linkage
3. Incorrectly-adjusted gear linkage
4. Worn synchroniser units

Jumps out of gear
1. Worn or damaged gear linkage
2. Incorrectly-adjusted gear linkage
3. Worn synchroniser units
4. Worn selector forks

Vibration
1. Lack of oil
2. Worn bearings


Automatic transmission

Fluid leakage
1. Automatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
blown onto the transmission by air flow.
2. To determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using a
degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise and
support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming from. The
following are common areas of leakage.
a) Oil pan.
b) Dipstick tube.

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
1. Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal


General gear selection problems
1. Checking and adjusting the selector cable
on automatic transmissions. The following are common problems
which may be caused by a poorly-adjusted cable.
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b) Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than the
one actually being used.
c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d) Poor gearshift quality or erratic gearchanges.

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
1. Low transmission fluid level
2. Incorrect selector cable adjustment
3. Incorrect kickdown cable adjustment

Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
1. Incorrect starter inhibitor switch adjustment
2. Incorrect selector cable adjustment

Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no
drive in forward or reverse gears
1. There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid
level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist,
check the fluid level and condition of the fluid.
Correct the fluid level as necessary, or change the fluid and filter if
needed. If the problem persists, professional help will be necessary.


Driveshafts

Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed
on full-lock)
1. Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged
gaiter
2. Worn outer constant velocity joint

Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
1.Worn inner constant velocity joint
2.Bent or distorted driveshaft

Braking system

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
1. Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front brake pads or
rear brake shoes/pads on one side
2. Seized or partially-seized front brake caliper or rear wheel
caliper/cylinder piston
3. A mixture of brake pad/shoe lining materials fitted between sides
4. Front brake caliper mounting bolts loose
5. Rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose
6. Worn or damaged steering or suspension components

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes
applied
1. Brake pad or shoe friction lining material worn down to metal
backing
2. Excessive corrosion of brake disc or drum. (May be apparent after
the vehicle has been standing for some time
3. Foreign object (stone chipping, etc) trapped between brake disc
and shield

Excessive brake pedal travel
1. Rear brakes incorrectly adjusted - early models
2. Inoperative rear brake self-adjust mechanism - later drum brake
models
3. Faulty master cylinder
4. Air in hydraulic system
5. Faulty vacuum servo unit

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
1. Air in hydraulic system
2. Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses
3. Master cylinder mounting nuts loose
4. Faulty master cylinder

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
1. Faulty vacuum servo unit
2. Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
3. Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure
4. Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s)
5. Brake pads or brake shoes incorrectly fitted
6. Incorrect grade of brake pads or brake shoes fitted
7. Brake pads or brake shoe linings contaminated

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
when braking
1. Excessive run-out or distortion of front discs or rear discs/drums
2. Brake pad or brake shoe linings worn
3. Brake caliper or rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose
4. Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings

Brakes binding
1. Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s)
2. Incorrectly-adjusted handbrake mechanism
3. Faulty master cylinder

Rear wheels locking under normal braking
1. Rear brake shoe linings contaminated
2. Faulty brake pressure regulator valve(s)

Suspension and steering

Vehicle pulls to one side
1. Defective tyre
2. Excessive wear in suspension or steering components
3. Incorrect front wheel alignment
4. Accident damage to steering or suspension components

Wheel wobble and vibration
1. Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the
steering wheel)
2. Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the
vehicle)
3. Roadwheels damaged or distorted
4. Faulty or damaged tyre
5. Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
6. Wheel bolts loose

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or
during braking
1. Defective shock absorbers
2. Broken or weak spring and/or suspension component
3. Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings

Wandering or general instability
1. Incorrect front wheel alignment
2. Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
3. Roadwheels out of balance
4. Faulty or damaged tyre
5. Wheel bolts loose
6. Defective shock absorbers

Excessively-stiff steering
1. Lack of steering gear lubricant
2. Seized track rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint
3. Broken or incorrectly-adjusted auxiliary drivebelt
4. Incorrect front wheel alignment
5. Steering rack or column bent or damaged

Excessive play in steering
1. Worn steering track rod end balljoints
2. Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear
3. Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components



Lack of power assistance
1. Broken or incorrectly-adjusted auxiliary drivebelt
2. Incorrect power steering fluid level
3. Restriction in power steering fluid hoses
4. Faulty power steering pump
5. Faulty rack-and-pinion steering gear

Tyre wear excessive
Tyres worn on inside or outside edges
1. Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges)
2. Incorrect camber or castor angles
3. Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
4. Excessively-hard cornering.
5. Accident damage.


Electrical system
Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
1. Battery defective internally
2. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded
3. Auxiliary drivebelt worn or incorrectly adjusted
4. Alternator not charging at correct output
5. Alternator or voltage regulator faulty
6. Short-circuit causing continual battery drain

Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated
with engine running
1. Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted
2. Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty
3. Alternator brush springs weak or broken
4. Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator
5. Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit

Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
1. Warning light bulb blown
2. Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit
3. Alternator faulty

Lights inoperative
1. Bulb blown
2. Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts
3. Blown fuse
4. Faulty relay
5. Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring
6. Faulty switch

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
Instrument readings increase with engine speed
1. Faulty voltage regulator

Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading
1. Faulty gauge sender unit
2. Wiring open-circuit
3. Faulty gauge

Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum
reading
1. Faulty gauge sender unit
2. Wiring short-circuit
3. Faulty gauge

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Horn operates all the time
1. Horn push either earthed or stuck down
2. Horn cable-to-horn push earthed

Horn fails to operate
1. Blown fuse
2. Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
3. Faulty horn

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound
1. Cable connections loose
2. Horn mountings loose
3. Faulty horn

Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly
1. Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding
2. Blown fuse
3. Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
4. Faulty relay
5. Faulty wiper motor

Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
the glass
1. Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles
2. Excessive wear of wiper linkage
3. Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure

Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively
1. Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished
2. Wiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized
3. Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road
film

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
One or more washer jets inoperative
1. Blocked washer jet
2. Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose
3. Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir

Washer pump fails to operate
1. Broken or disconnected wiring or connections
2. Blown fuse
3. Faulty washer switch
4. Faulty washer pump

Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets
1.Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hoses

operation
Window glass will only move in one direction
1. Faulty switch

Window glass slow to move
1. Incorrectly-adjusted door glass guide channels
2. Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication
3. Door internal components or trim fouling regulator
4. Faulty motor

Window glass fails to move
1. Incorrectly-adjusted door glass guide channels
2. Blown fuse
3. Faulty relay
4. Broken or disconnected wiring or connections
5. Faulty motor

Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory
in operation
Complete system failure
1. Blown fuse
2. Faulty relay
3. Broken or disconnected wiring or connections
4. Faulty control unit

Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lock
1. Faulty master switch
2. Broken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
3. Faulty relay
4. Faulty control unit

One solenoid/motor fails to operate
1. Broken or disconnected wiring or connections
2. Faulty solenoid/motor
3. Broken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
4. Fault in door latch


Note: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the
faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.